The Goose Station

A feature of many high-end restaurants in Manila these days is the degustation menu, which is the best showcase for the abilities of the chef. Often, these menus don’t just offer riffs on what is available on the a la carte menu, but is designed to show off special ingredients, techniques and the artistry of the chef. One of the pioneers in the offering of degustation menus is The Goose Station where Chef Rob Pengson creates refined and exquisite dishes based n Filipino classics.

For its October ever, the Chaine des Rotisseurs/Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Degustateurs decided on a BYOB dinner at The Goose Station since we had never had an event there and we had sampled Chef Rob’s new menu just a few months earlier.

To whet the appetite, we had the Foie Gras Cone which made its appearance in the first menu of The Goose Station and has remained on the menu ever since. It is a very popular dish and highly recommended.

Foie Gras Cone - Foie gras mousse, Port Jelly, Fig jam, Hazelnut

Foie Gras Cone – Foie gras mousse, Port Jelly, Fig jam, Hazelnut

The dinner proper started with Tuna Kilawin which was a deconstructed version of the dish with the addition of other seafood and an intriguing gel noodle. This was subtle in flavor to showcase the freshness of the seafood. Even the mustard ice cream was quite mild.

Tuna Kilawin - Organic crab, Mini gel noodles, Ikura, Puffed rice, Miso, Daikon, Mustard ice cream

Tuna Kilawin – Organic crab, Mini gel noodles, Ikura, Puffed rice, Miso, Daikon, Mustard ice cream

This was followed by one of our table’s favorites of the evening, the Filipiniana Eggs Benedict. This was served with a pan de sal so you could do a scarpetta with the runny egg yolk.

Filipiniana Eggs Benedict - Smoked sweet potato, Achara, Davao goat cheese, Pork belly

Filipiniana Eggs Benedict – Smoked sweet potato, Achara, Davao goat cheese, Pork belly

The next dish was a Foie Gras Taho. All the ingredients of a regular taho were there – custard for the bean curd, Pedro Ximenez for the syrup, and tapioca, but the sweetness and richness of the whole thing cut by the bright acidity of the green apple.

Foie Gras Taho - Steamed foie gras custard, Pedro Ximenez sherry, Tapioca, Green apple, Chive, Miso mushroom cappuccino

Foie Gras Taho – Steamed foie gras custard, Pedro Ximenez sherry, Tapioca, Green apple, Chive, Miso mushroom cappuccino

A course of Squab Inasal followed next. Slightly gamy and chewy, this finally gave us a reason to drink our reds as we were confined to champagne for the first few courses.

Squab Inasal - Smoked mash potato, Foei gras, Radisj fondant, Orange-ginger gastrique, Fried capers, Charred leek

Squab Inasal – Smoked mash potato, Foie gras, Radish fondant, Orange-ginger gastrique, Fried capers, Charred leek

We also had some rice mixed in with other grains – this was a Filipino dinner, after all.

Rice, quinoa, and other grains

Rice, quinoa, and other grains

 

Another favorite of the evening was the last course of  Beef BBQ Short ribs with Uni. Perfect with the Mill’s Reef Syrah from New Zealand.

Beef BBQ and Sea Urchin - Slow cooked short rib, Charcoal seaweed, Sea urchin, Spiced garlic chips, Achara pickles

Beef BBQ and Sea Urchin – Slow cooked short rib, Charcoal seaweed, Sea urchin, Spiced garlic chips, Achara pickles

For dessert, we had a Calamansi Tart. Unfortunately, it was a bit too sweet for the dessert wine – a Trimbach Fredric Emile Riesling 2001 Vendange Tardive.

Calamansi Tart - Butter cookie crust, Pili nut crumble, Meringue, Cookie spread

Calamansi Tart – Butter cookie crust, Pili nut crumble, Meringue, Cookie spread

It was an excellent dinner and I have no qualms about recommending this restaurant to anyone looking for a great degustation experience.

The Goose Station is located at W Tower, 1117 39th St., Bonifaio Global Cty, Taguig. Tel 5569088